Timepiece Tales: Interview with Aidan de Cadenet

In the world of watch collecting, Aidan de Cadenet has emerged as a fresh and vibrant voice, representing a new generation of enthusiasts whose appreciation for horology is both nuanced and deeply rooted. Born into a world steeped in motorsports, Aidan finds himself torn between two iconic cities, London and Los Angeles. His fascination with intricate mechanisms has led him to become a representative of a new wave of watch collectors. Unlike traditional enthusiasts, de Cadenet's approach is marked by a modern sensibility that seamlessly blends heritage with contemporary allure. For Aidan, the appeal lies in the perfect blend of passion, craftsmanship, functionality, and heritage that each timepiece embodies. In this interview we delve into his curated collection, gaining insights into the watches that encapsulate his discerning taste, and understanding how he bridges the gap between past and present in the realm of horology.

Aidan outside his home in London, England.

What is your first watch related memory?

This is sort of a two part answer:

The earliest memory I can recollect of even looking at watches is when I used to fly to London when I was really young with my mum and dad. We would fly out the back of the plane where there was little luxury besides an allocated in-flight magazine for each seat. I remember sifting through this magazine when I was about 9 or 10, and uncovering a page with a G-Shock advertisement where they had a collaboration with the Air Force. At the time I thought that was the coolest thing ever. Seeing these fellas in their F-16s sporting their G-Shock with G sensor in it. Damn it that was cool... That is what sort of set off the attraction to me of being the owner of a watch.

The second part of this answer has to do with my dad. He was never a watch guy (so to say) but he always did have a watch on. He had a couple of watches but really only had one pride and joy. This would be his 1966 321 Omega Speedmaster with a Miester dial. When I was younger and would think of him, I would always remember this watch on his wrist. I didn't know anything about it at the time but I knew it was very special to him, so it was very special to me. He told me a great story one time about when Paul Newman came to visit him in London. They knew each other from the racing world (as everyone did) but were not immediate friends. Paul sat down for some tea on the sofa where sometime during the conversation watches entered the talking point. They temporarily exchanged watches in that room, My dad took Paul's Daytona (I would like to think it was a PN dial but he couldn't remember), and Paul my dad's Speedmaster. Apparently Paul took quite a liking to the Speedmaster and even expressed how much he liked it but couldn't wear one for obvious reasons. A fun little side story not too many people will know about.

What is the most important watch(es) in your collection? And why?

This is a very easy answer for me. I am lucky to have bought quite a fair number of watches back when they were not looked at heavily and have managed to still hold onto most, but easily the crown jewel for me, and by no means the most valuable, is the 321 Speedmaster. Kind of for the reasons that I mentioned before, that it was simply my dad’s. He was the first owner of that watch and bought it brand new in 66’. It has done 14 Le Mans 24 hour races with him including 3 seasons of sports car championships racing as well. He also rode motorcycles with that watch on and would fly his Spitfire with it as well. He would just never take it off . The watch has been in every car, bike, and plane you could possibly imagine, so for the historical importance of what that watch has done, but also because it was his, there’s no amount of money someone could offer me to sell it. It’s the one watch that I know I’m going to the grave with so that’s easily the most important watch in my family of tickers.

What brand do you have the most affinity for?

This is always an ever changing answer for me. I just simply do not have a permanent favourite because there are so many that I adore. The majority of the collection is vintage Rolex, but by no means are they my favourite. I think if you don’t mention Patek as being a favourite you have a screw loose as well. However, I’m also a huge fan of A.Lange & Söhne as well. Recently, I have been getting into vintage Longines, which are not a particularly expensive brand but they really do speak to me for some reason. Lemania is pretty killer because they made the movements for so many different brands and they don’t get any love for some reason, which is funny because Patek and many others heavily used their movements throughout the 80s, 90s and even in the early 2000s.

However, if I had to pick one brand that I could only sleep with for the rest of my life, it would have to be Patek I think. Patek is sort of like The Beatles, they have been around forever and you have heard every song over 1000 times but they just somehow manage to age so well yet never get old at the same time.

What watch do you wear the most? And why?

I try to have them on constant rotation, so I never give one watch more wrist time than another, It's so much easier said than done though. I do love my Zenith Daytona 16520 ‘A’ series, which I wear quite a lot. It has become my throw on and “go about your day watch”. I want to toss a load of scratches and war wounds on it, it just gives it more character that way to me. I’ll throw this in for Nick as well (founder of Watches London) but I also wear a 16528 Inverted 6, which I bought from him. It’s the same watch, just in yellow gold and a 6 that looks like a 9. I have been wearing my 1675 GMT gilt dial quite a lot and I just love that as well. Something about that Mega Fat Font insert that just hits differently for me. Another watch that has been getting some wrist time is the Audemars Piguet Openwork 25829ST, which I have been wearing while riding motorcycles with and just putting my own story on it. We are exactly the same age so it's fun to grow with that watch. The list seems to go on and on really. I do wear my dad’s Speedy quite often, even though that’s the most important to me and it should be kept away, but I love to wear it because it just reminds me of him. It’s also been beaten to shit, so it’s the easiest to wear and not have to worry about. It’s been through 4 or 5 motorcycle crashes, one plane crash and about 6 car crashes… so it’s pretty easy to wear without worrying about a tiny scratch!

When buying a watch, are there things in particular you look for?

Absolutely. I believe if you’re not looking at certain things when buying a watch then you’re doing it wrong, especially in my world of vintage. With modern watches it’s a little easier but vintage is a total minefield, so you have to absolutely know what is authentic and what is not, what’s period-correct and what’s not, Forget reference numbers, you need to know serial numbers, What corresponds to those serial numbers, such as dials, hands, inserts, cases, pushers, bracelets, bezels etc.

Obviously, a tricky part is the movements, One that I have not mastered but am learning. Everyone can see and analyse the outside of a watch, but knowing what you’re looking at inside is something not so many people are well-versed in. There are a lot of awfully manipulated movements out there. So, the main thing is as long as those stars align and the watch is completely legitimate and correct, that's what keeps me happy.

At the end of the day, most people focus on the condition. I would rather have just a naked watch that comes with nothing, that is 8 or 9 out of 10 and untouched its whole life (not 10 out of 10 because you can’t wear it then) than have a full set but a watch that is 6 or 7 out of 10. I see value in having a more original factory aesthetic look to it. When one embraces the imperfections, such as not being a perfect example with a full set with box, papers, hang tag, receipt, now you're talking...

Aidan and Nick, founder of Watches London.

What watch are you looking for next?

This is sadly never set in stone for me, nor is it really for anyone who enjoys this sick and twisted pastime. The answer to what am I looking for next always changes by the second. It’s really important to look for what you love/adore and not what the heard of sheep flock to. This is something that most people I meet that are not “die hard” passionate watch fanatics don’t particularly understand. It simply isn’t about buying the most expensive thing or the thing everyone else has, But you must have a full-blown love affair with whatever it is you’re after and not caring what others think about it. If you love it then chances are the rest will eventually follow as time always shows… except if you love Hublot then you’re just a bit fucked.

I think at this very moment, I would love to have a 5066J 1st year Aquanaut which is from 1998 (same as the 25829ST). I’m kinda into the idea of being the same age as your watch. It’s fun to maybe pass it onto your kid one day and it being basically you in watch form (at least in age). I really would just love one of those 5066’s ideally on a green Aquanaut strap. There is something just so wrong about yellow gold sport watches yet something so right at the same time. It doesn’t make sense to make a watch you should use everyday out of yellow gold, yet it just works. The more dings the better!

Then again, one of my absolute must-have grail watches, and one which always has been since I was just learning about these things many years ago is a 5004P with a Black Arabic dial. This was a love-at-first-sight type of situation. I have watched them go from not being totally out of reach to now just being harder and harder to justify. I love it so much that I had a rug made that I keep in my office so even though I don’t have one at least I get to walk on one every day.

I am sort of settling down though, and I feel I have mostly everything I need at the moment. I don’t see myself needing “Mega” million-dollar watches. I know many people that have them (some that paid next to nothing which is a different story) but I’m happy looking at those juggernauts from afar and not owning them even if I had the money! There is something about the massive money watches that seems wrong to me. It’s the same as a 40, 50, 100 million dollar car. There reaches a point where the price doesn’t justify the filling of the void from the happiness anymore. It sounds crazy to say that but hopefully some understand what I’m getting at.

At the end of the day I’m so blessed and happy to have what I have. I try not to let greed and lust get the better of me. At some point in my life I would just love to actually narrow it down to around 3 watches that get constant love and affection. That’s really what I think will be the new 100-watch collection type of flexing.

Actually fuck that, I will always need more watches…

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Ref; 25829ST.

Lexi PorterNovember 2, 2023